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Oh well, another weekend excellent... et some more done on Sunday. Start cleaning up chassis and finally work out what parts i need. I'm glad to hear that the bulkhead is not a stumbling block and i can now use my new floorpans and fill in the difference. i will take some pics sunday, so i can ask some advice. this is more of a yawn, deffinately not bore.
I'm gonna replace all outriggers a strip down one of the rails. I took the same route T, and stabbed a screwdriver through the rust. A bit of an awkward place and two orientations (side and bottom) Whats the best way to take off the welds around the outriggers? I have included some pics. Whe i was roughly cutting outriggers off, they were full up with rusty crumbs it was like emptying the toaster!
My chassis was full of rustyflakes too. Luckily (!) the holes in mine were big enough to blow most of it out with an airline and the remainder will get a good soaking with waxoyl fairly soon.
As for removing the welds left over from the old outriggers, I just ground mine back with the angle grinder until I could clamp the new ones nice and flush with the surface.
Not sure if you're a seasoned welder but if you're a newbie like me the best advice I can give you is to make sure everything you're going to weld is as bare metal shiny as possible, otherwise the arc just won't strike.
The other thing I'd recommend is measuring all the angles and distances between the original outriggers and main rails before cutting the old outriggers off so you can maintain the correct orientation when you fit the new outriggers. That way the back wheels should still point in the right direction once you've finished. Without a jig or an existing reference point I fear that aligning the rear wheels could be a bit of a problem...
Best of luck with it all fellow repairer of the small chassis.
Lots of names i havn't heardof for a while and some new ones...
Please send pics of anything you're doing to your cars! Its all very interesting. Maybe add a few words as welllayball:
You can use it to bond the shell to the floor panels before you overlay in glass fibre (a few layers of chopped strand matting seems to be the chosen option), or you can just apply to the inner shell and floor in order to provide a better surface before joining those two surfaces together by glassing.
You can also use it to attach the inner wheel arches, inner panels, sill shuts etc..
As the glass fibre is going to be structural i opted for chopped strand matting, but others may have done differently and i don't pretend that the way i did it is the only way, but it worked for me
I have an inkling that I might move the whole fuel tank back behind the rear diff/springs to free up the space behind the seats for luggage. Is that feasible in your opinion?
I have an inkling that I might move the whole fuel tank back behind the rear diff/springs to free up the space behind the seats for luggage. Is that feasible in your opinion?
THATS WHAT WE HAVE DONE HERE ....The tank sits in its frame behind the diff and I have welded two little feet on to the bottom to hold the frame to the rear boot outriggers as well.....The fuel filler will just go straight up as before....
That's good news Gary. I've been staring at the chassis, subframe and fuel tank from day one and thinking why not move it back to free up the luggage space?
My reasoning is that I really want to go touring in my Spyder when I retire in five years and six days time (not that I'm counting...).
I was lucky enough to visit some fantastic places during my time in the 'forces and I'm planning to go back and visit the best ones that are possible to drive to.
I'm hoping mine will be the first Sammio in the Arctic circle when I drive it to Evenes in Norway, which is like Santa's home town, even in the summer.
That's about as far as I think I'll get though as some of my other fave places that Her Maj stumped up for me to see are just a bit too far away. I guess Penang Island and Decimomannu will have to stay Sammio free for the time being.
In Italian, coppa means competition, racing, and rallies. We created the Coppa seat to closely resemble the seat that Zagato created in the late 1950's which has since been chosen for all outstanding Zagato creations in Alfa Romeo's, Aston Martin's and Lancia's.
It is the perfect seat for classic Italian and British sports cars from the 1950's to the early 70's as well as for roadsters and hot rods as an old style seat with the side support one always wished for.
Unfortunately they seem to be about £600 ea. in leatherette...
Don't think I haven't thought about roofs ....we made no money last year at all ....probably lost some in reality as I developed two cars , the G46 and the 550 .....550 has been sidestepped ....we are building two but thats the end of my involvement ....the G46 is pretty much there ...we are selling them.
The Cordite is going to cost a few quid , not as much as the previous two ....don't ask !! its not too bad though as its a fairly mild tweak to an existing option ....making a car from foam and filler is not the cheap way to do it !!
To summarise , I need to get some money back this year and I think the ongoing interest in the Spyder and the Cordite's predicted interest ( I have had over 20 emails about it in the 2 weeks since I put the picture up ) will get my money back ....if we can turn a small profit towards the end of the year , I might look at roofs ....
The very early 550's had a hardtop that was quite cool as well...
.I think they used a 356 screen ....the 356 screen will fit a Sammio Spyder by the way ...........STOP TYPING GARY BEFORE YOU START SOMETHING !!
You need to rent the unit next door and get people in churning out the Spyder and Cordite kits a-plenty. Aim for 50-100 of each this year. Scalability is the key to profitability. ound:
I believe that the 550 and 356 screen is the same. I am planning on having that as an option in the US. I am sure that they will fit well. There are some states that require a Department of Transportation certified safety glass windscreen. The Porsche glass meets that requirement.
I think that a vw Kharmin Ghia windshield has a good look. The width should be right. It will be to tall, so it would have to be cut down. Simple to do with a waterjet. More difficult with a cutter, alcohol, and a match, But, I have done it successfully.
excellent... et some more done on Sunday. Start cleaning up chassis and finally work out what parts i need. I'm glad to hear that the bulkhead is not a stumbling block and i can now use my new floorpans and fill in the difference. i will take some pics sunday, so i can ask some advice.
this is more of a yawn, deffinately not bore.
layball: 
