This is a read-only archive of the old Madabout Kitcars forum. New posts and replies are no longer possible, but every thread is still here to browse and read.
The two blog entries have nothing I haven't posted here already, but I have added a new page devoted to the low fuel light circuitry, with all of Rob's calculations and high res copies of the circuit and the veroboard layout if you want them.
The other thing is I've re-enabled commenting on the site - I couldn't get it working on previous version of iWeb so i used a third party ad on that wasn't that great (and has now given up the ghost altogether) - but I have got the in-built commenting system on iWeb 09 working now. So you can leave me rude messages on my site as well as here!
Apart from the extra ventilation, another thing is bugging me. I have the screen centered, square and level, and the fit of the pedestal / ali filler piece with the rubber is spot on
However, it looks like one side is further over than the other, as one wing mirror is closer to the screen pillar than the other. Measuring to check that both mirrors are in the same place shows that they are - so what gives?
It fits the body work perfectly, and looks central. I have had to pack the legs with washers as per the instructions, and I just assumed that this was due to the 'handbuilt nature' of the scuttle...
I'll post some pics tonight to show you what I mean.
Apart from the extra ventilation, another thing is bugging me. I have the screen centered, square and level, and the fit of the pedestal / ali filler piece with the rubber is spot on
However, it looks like one side is further over than the other, as one wing mirror is closer to the screen pillar than the other. Measuring to check that both mirrors are in the same place shows that they are - so what gives?
It fits the body work perfectly, and looks central. I have had to pack the legs with washers as per the instructions, and I just assumed that this was due to the 'handbuilt nature' of the scuttle...
I'll post some pics tonight to show you what I mean.
Use the Upol filler that contains fiberglass strands. It is far stronger than straight filler.
Use the Marlin measurements with some discretion. Due to the 'handbuilt nature' they are only a first estimate.
I didn't ever check if mine was central but id you have the same number of packing washers each side it should be about right When I stripped my car to have the panels painted howeve I noticed that the supports for the scuttle bend easily.....
I had to trim the aly filler panel considerably to make it fit. It looked like a 5 year old had cut it out!
Just keep at it and remember to measure lots of times before you v
cut. You will get there in the end.
However, it looks like one side is further over than the other, as one wing mirror is closer to the screen pillar than the other. Measuring to check that both mirrors are in the same place shows that they are - so what gives?
How much are we talking about? I just checked mine and it is OK side to side but about 3mm out front to back. It dosent show...
To be honest, It's not that noticeable at first glance - it's just something I know my eye will be drawn to.... I'll have to live for it for a while to see wether my OCD will kick in and I'll have to do something about it.
I've filled the slots in now. I used some quick-glass fibre mat and resin on the underside to provide some support, and then filled the hole with fibreglass filler. It's rubbed back well and the contour of the scuttle has been retained. I finished it off with some P38 to fill some small pin holes left by air in the fibreglass filler. Once painted, you'd never know. Phew!
Whilst I was waiting for the filler to cure, I managed to get the check straps installed. Nice chunky leather ones:
I guess it must be due to your centre line datum point. I assume you used your hinge line?
It's not easy finding the centre of the scuttle or the nose.
Maybe move the drivers mirror down a bit to fool the eye?
But if your like me, you'll end up cutting new slots for the windscreen!
Yes, I used the hinge as my datum, as the Marlin instructions call for it... Plus I know that it's slap bang in the middle, as I measured that when I fitted it.
I think if I enlarged the mounting holes for the mirrors, I could move the drivers down a fraction and the passenger's up a little, and it would balance out enough to fool the eye.
I think if I enlarged the mounting holes for the mirrors, I could move the drivers down a fraction and the passenger's up a little, and it would balance out enough to fool the eye.
That's what I would do....
I would probably have a similar problem but my mirrors are mounted further way from the from so it doesn't notice.
BTW - I found a better rubber section for the seal between the closure plate and the scuttle. Its designed just for that kind of job rather than being just a U shape. There's a thread somewhere about it. It was from Woolies.
I've opened out the mounting holes for the wing mirrors now, and it's much better. You can't tell that the mirrors arent bang on level now, and there is now a gap between the drivers side mirror and the windscreen escutcheon.
It's still not perfectly equal, but a lot better than it was. I think I can live with it.
On a lighter note, now I have the deflector shield (windscreen) operational, Warp speeds are less painful now.
Spent the evening making up my spare wheel mount. I got a spare rear hub a couple of weeks ago, and have managed to modify it so that I have a very sturdy mounting point for the wheel.
I've cut the stem that passed through the bearing in the trailing arm off, and ground the rear of the hub flat. I then drilled and tapped some M10 holes which mount the modified hub on the hump in the middle of the tub, with the bolts being tightened from inside the boot (the bolts having been cut so when they're tight with a large washer they sit just below the mating surface of the hub).
Wheel sits on the hub, and the four existing M12 bolt holes are used to secure the wheel.
It all looks very neat, if I do say so myself. You can judge for yourself tomorrow once the camera battery has charged!
As I mentioned earlier, the hub has had the stem with the internal splines cut off and the back ground flat. I drilled out the existing hole that was used for the brake disk fixing, and retapped it to M10 - and then drilled 3 matching holes.
The shortened bolts hold the hub in the tub and are tightened up from inside the boot.
The wheel drops onto the hub and then normal wheel bolts hold it on. I won't be using a fibreglass cover. I'm planning on getting a fabric cover.
I remember that day. But very traumatic, leaving the Sportster in the car park all on its own.... I had to go and check it was still there once an hour
I think I installed the immobiliser and alarm shortly after that...
After some of the horror stories you guys had getting the details on it correct, I was supprised that that Swansea managed to nail it first time.
Well - they still have time to redeam this oversight once the Sorn on the donor runs out at the end of the year. I wonder if I'll get a reminder like Robin?
