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Morning everyone, not much to report apart from the fact that my budget for the year has been approved by the chancellor, so hopefully this will mean a rolling chassis by march...ish.
Morning everyone, not much to report apart from the fact that my budget for the year has been approved by the chancellor, so hopefully this will mean a rolling chassis by march...ish.
That's good news.
Did you find out how to shim the rotoflex?
Just sold the wheels off my donor. That has made it it more difficult for the wife to dispose of it whilst I am work!!!!!!!!!! LOL.
Will have to buy the hub adaptors now so I can move it when I am ready. I am waiting for Oxford to post a piccie of his wheels on.
I am waiting for Oxford to post a piccie of his wheels on.
You and me both! My kindly act of letting my MGF lugs be a GCSE project (I just needed them chamfered and shortened) has backfired. The school's lathe has gone OS and they are hunting for a part. I haven't got the heart to ask for them back, and there are plenty of other jobs (about 2,600 at the last count) that I can be getting on with. I just have to be patient. Pics will appear the moment the hubs and wheels are in place!
The adjustable tie-rods were fitted to all rotoflex cars, Vitesse and GT6. Unfortunately they don't fit swing axle cars as the angle between the drive shaft and chassis is different. I ran a Burlington Arrow with rotoflex years ago and after asking for advice about shimming it from various TSSC Gurus the consensus seemed to be 'reassemble it the same way it came apart and it will be Ok' I did that and the car is still on the road 15 years later. Maybe there is better info available now!
Marine ply or exterior grade ply? For making bulkhead and lowered floorpans, which one is best. Also glue?
I used phenolic impregnated 12mm ply for the lowered floors, but then totally encased them in fibreglass so I could've used bog standard ply really.
I then used cheap shuttering ply for the rear bulkhead, luggage box and side panels, but soaked it all in wood preservative after cutting to shape.
As for the glue, bostik gives you a bit of a headache after you've inhaled it while uhu gets you really stoned but makes your breath smell and leaves a giveaway ring of spots round your mouth where you've held the carrier bag, oh, you mean to stick stuff to the car, don't you...
I did some reading up on the different types of ply when i was building mine and and it all comes down to quality of the wood, the %age of cavities/gaps and the glue used and from what i remember there was only minor quality differences between marine and exterior. although i'm open to be corrected!
T T T, this is why i said bye bye to my friends at school in the early eighties... i knew i would get in trouble. Lets see if Seanick has any more options.
If you can find a local finreglass bod they will usually lay you up some flat sheet for next to nothing, you can then cut and bond it together so you dont have the worry of wood at all, im lucky in this respect in that my next door neigbour at the unit is a fibreglass bod. its also actually very simple to lay up flat sheet yourself, i have found second hand double glazing units go cheap and even if they have a crack one side you can use the other, laying up on glass means you will have a really good finish and it releases easily as well.
We have even done some carbon fibre composite stuff for our race GTA, including some vaccum bagged carbon kevlar foam sheet for the floors that weighs next to nothing but you can put a dent in it with a hammer!