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When fitting my engine, I noticed the small driveshaft would no way fit the gearbox due to the bending needed. This was with the engine as far right as possible. So to compensate, the engine has been tilted to bring the gearbox more in line with the hub centre line. This driveshaft is still bend a far bit.
Has anyone else had to tilt the engine for this small driveshaft?
I'm using the 220 turbo long driveshaft (outer boot died I discover today ) so will need to get this sorted or get a diesel driveshaft. But it's the short one that's worrying me.
I'm going thru T16 turbo driveshaft hell too at the moment.
My set-up at the moment is SHORT 420 GSi turbo and LONG 420 turbo diesel.
I now reckon the better way to go is completely the opposite!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Reason for this is i want to rotate the engine a LOT more to try and straighten the driveshafts.
"We" really need to sort this...i'll try and get various driveshafts and measure overall lengths.
just tried looking on the Rover EPC but though it does indeed list all the different drive shafts but unfortunately not the dimensions so not much help I suppose. I can post a copy to you if you do not already have the EPC, but as I say only limited help.
I to fitted the diesel long drive shaft and have the short d/shaft off the 220 gti coupe doner the play seems about right but quite an acute angle. but it is hard to tell till its been on the road.
The motor factors i used to purchase the long drive shaft had the various rover drive shafts listed with the compressed length of the shaft so you could pick the length you wanted from the various models in their book
Yep it's the short one that's worring me. The acute angle. I think mine is the same as yours Tony as mines is from a 220 turbo. Not sure if there's a difference with the 420 one.
It's a if the engine needs moving back a bit.eep: which would cause a whole lot more problems for example exhaust and maybe gear selector rods.
I watched Mark Evans or on of the other programs on sky. But he was in a similar position with regards to engine position and drive shafts. So he used some device to connect the flywheel of the engine via a chain to the driveshafts. And hey it worked. Wonder if there is such a contraption that is available or could be made. Will do some investigation.
I think this is the one I'm refering to. I know it's bike engine sprocket (included in the parts list) and driveshafts. Now only if there was some way to connect the pg1 using a chain system. Sprocker on a inner cv joint. Maybe taking rubbish as I'm no engineer!
Can't remember if it was a mid engined bike engine install.
Not sure whether they have the compressed lengths, but it's Woods of Ilford (Tel: 020 8478 6733 ). The young girl there know's all about Trev's long driveshaft.
Hi can someone post a picture of the short driveshaft viewed from above. Also with dimensions if possible for length and how much its out.
Measure from center of spline where it enters the hub to the centre of the spline where it enters the gearbox. Trying to measure the distance that the driveshaft angle it has to bend to reach the grearbox. If the makes sense!
Can't do it on mine at present as my engine is tilted.
Just thought I would mention. I popped along to rover today to get some bits. There was an MGF in there have it's head replaced. So being a bit noisy, noticed the engine is also at a tilt.
The T16 is at COMPLETELY the wrong angle on the standard Marlin mounts IMO.
We were a bit worried about oil surge issues... It really is that bad...
Needs the base of the engine moving back about 3" from standard to get the base of the sump slightly tilted towards front, so front of sump is lower than rear.
Hi John.
I don't think there is any chance of the shaft just popping out to be honest.
The ideal engine position would be the same (relatively) as a standard Rover 220 etc.
Key thing IMO is to get the sump at the right angle so as to prevent oil surge.
These cars with nearly 300hp don't have pull some impressive G forces on acceleration I can tell you!!
Key thing IMO is to get the sump at the right angle so as to prevent oil surge.
These cars with nearly 300hp don't have pull some impressive G forces on acceleration I can tell you!!
Not experience 200 HP yet let alone 300HP.
What do you think about the position of the mounts at the suspension strut? I think it would mean the engine would not need to be tilted (oil problem), the drive shafts would be dead straight. The problem is the work involved remounting the engine. Well for me anyway.
The other idea I had was leave engine where it is but keep engine level. And have chain drive to drive shafts like some other cars I've see. But don't know if this has been done before or even possible on the PG1.
Grant and I are to install a new uprated engine into mine.
I have been passed new engine mounts by Mark of Marlin. Give them a call.
The engine will be tilted far more than previous to straighten the driveshafts and improve oil pick position (surge issues).
You need the SHORT diesel driveshaft and the LONG turbo driveshaft.
Yes, I think thats it John.
WHY hasn't Mark/Marlin said this???
I get quite wound up by several issues that have popped up. It's like the R+D is done by customers, not by Marlin!!!
I don't think Marlin had there Turbo for very long. So I don't think Marlin knew about the driveshaft issue. After Marlin dismantaled there's they never built another one and was not recommending it to there customers.
Just a quicky. The short diesel driveshaft (I'm getting my head round it now:dizzy Is it from a mk2 or mk3 200 diesel?
AFAIK short diesel shaft has same part number for both mk2 and mk3 models.
BUT get a new assembly from rover. ensure part number is R0123L (shaftec part number).
we'll finish the engine mounts and the rest of the install over the weekend.
) so will need to get this sorted or get a diesel driveshaft. But it's the short one that's worrying me. 
eep: which would cause a whole lot more problems for example exhaust and maybe gear selector rods.
Is it from a mk2 or mk3 200 diesel?