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1. donor car bought (Herald 13/60 Convertible)
2. vitesse engine bought
3. another welding set bought
4. sammio spyder_126 now ordered
Now, do I tell the misses now or leave it a few weeks.
Leave it a few weeks I think......
You've taken the plunge now, so you might as well own up to your better half. Try putting a positive spin on it like "this is going to be so good for my wellbeing and our relationship will positively benefit from the shared experience." She should definitely buy that or some similar guff.
You've taken the plunge now, so you might as well own up to your better half. Try putting a positive spin on it like "this is going to be so good for my wellbeing and our relationship will positively benefit from the shared experience." She should definitely buy that or some similar guff.
No I am just going to wait, have a few nice days, then tell her the silent treatment will be OK for a few days, it will be wasted if I tell her now. LOL
Will you carry with that theme on the interior? What wheels?
Pantone Body,
Orange chassis,
Black plain interior (poss orange piping), with chrome gear stick, hand brake dials, pedals etc.... but not 100% sure yet.
Wire polished chrome wheels possible, chrome mirrors, light bezels etc.... may change, still trying work out a budget that I can hide from the misses.....
Pantone IS available for the Gel you'll be pleased to note
Cheers Andy
Right, that is that is the colours settled, I was wanting a GULF GT40 colour look but not wanting to copy too much, the Pantone is a close match, and with teh orange accessory under the bonnent should be bold but understated (I hope), so I think it should look good, by the way there isn't another one been created like this is there????
Has anyone purchased or use a DIY Powder Coating Set, as I looking a purchasing an electrostaticMAGIC one.
I've bought powder from them, but I made my own gun from information in the patent. I made an electrostatic flocking gun for a model railway builder friend at work too. They're really just the same kind of high voltage generator you find in an air ioniser.
Get yourself an old electric oven off freecycle or something for curing the powder. Although in theory you can cure with a hot air gun it doesn't give good results.
Check out the Caswell plating website (the US one) where there's an active forum on coating.
I've bought powder from them, but I made my own gun from information in the pate......... Check out the Caswell plating website (the US one) where there's an active forum on coating.
I am going to by the electrostaticMAGIC kit with stand and other bits, plus a load of orange, blue, white, chrome and black powder this next week, looked at the Caswell one looks good as well, not much difference in the price, so I thought I would the one from the UK.
I am going buy a oven to go in the garage in the corner.
Just trying to sort some wire wheel, don't no whether to buy new or risk second hand and have reburished.
Any advice, on cutting the top down on the bulk head.
Is there a point where I need the DVLA to look at the car, before bonding the body or is it case do the work then have it inspected.
1/ Don't cut through the wiring loom with the angle grinder like I did. My electrics are now starting to cause me problems...
2/ Do try to cut the bulkhead with a convex radius to match the underside of the body shell (someone did this on their build thread and I wish I had). This will make sealing it simpler when you bond the body on.
I bought second hand wires from ebay (£80 for five) then sandblasted them and sprayed them myself, total outlay was about £140, plus about £280 for a set of Triumph splined adaptors (long for 14 & 15" wheels not short type for 13's). If you want new wheels then you could do worse than speak to the MGB Hive -
1/ Don't cut through the wiring loom with the angle grinder like I did. My electrics are now starting to cause me problems...
2/ Do try to cut the bulkhead with a convex radius to match the underside of the body shell (someone did this on their build thread and I wish I had). This will make sealing it simpler when you bond the body on.
I bought second hand wires from ebay (£80 for five) then sandblasted them and sprayed them myself, total outlay was about £140, plus about £280 for a set of Triumph splined adaptors (long for 14 & 15" wheels not short type for 13's). If you want new wheels then you could do worse than speak to the MGB Hive -
DVLA inspection comes after bonding on the body but before cutting off the rear boot outriggers or the ends of the front crossmember.
Good luck.
Cheers, Point 1 NOTED, Point 2 great idea will do
Going to make a offer on some with the splined adapters, might be able to shot blast my self then spray, will see.
Cheers, Point 1 NOTED, Point 2 great idea will do
Going to make a offer on some with the splined adapters, might be able to shot blast my self then spray, will see.
Blasting second hand wheels is rather dirty and time consuming but well worth the effort -
I blasted my chassis too (I doubt that'll fit in your cabinet!). I'm so glad I did as it revealed a lot of hidden horrors that would've caused major headaches later if I hadn't tackled them.
All fixed now and should be good for another forty odd years
Just trying to sort some wire wheel, don't no whether to buy new or risk second hand and have reburished.
It's the splines you have to worry about. If they're worn then the cost of having the wheels rebuilt would go quite a long way towards buying new.
Often the splines in the wheel and those on the hub don't match over their entire length, so you can see or feel the difference between the worn and unworn sections.
The recommendation is new wheels and new hubs, because a worn wheel will wear a new hub and vise versa, but in reality as long as the splines are only a little worn (and you make sure your spinners are always kept good and tight) then they're going to last well enough for the amount of use a vehicle like this is likely to get.
I bought a set of wheels where the splines are marginal and I probably won't use them, but they did only cost £26.
It's the splines you have to worry about. If they're worn then the cost of .................... they did only cost £26.
Think I will get new a couple of months down the line.
If my chassis is like a sieve as it seem must have been, what is best thickness of steel to use. 1.2, 2, 3, etc as it seems most have varied bearing in mind, I don't have any laid about in my garage, so what ever size I need I will have to buy (just wish I still worked for British Steel, never thought I would think that, nevermined say it).
If my chassis is like a sieve as it seem must have been, what is best thickness of steel to use. 1.2, 2, 3, etc as it seems most have varied bearing in mind, I don't have any laid about in my garage, so what ever size I need I will have to buy (just wish I still worked for British Steel, never thought I would think that, nevermined say it).
Most of the material in the main rails is 16swg (1.6mm) with some reinforcements and internal stiffeners in 14swg (2mm) or perhaps even 12swg (2.6mm). Something that's very often overlooked is the re-inforcement plate that boxes in the side rails at the rear where they meet the outriggers as these don't seem to be available as a repair panel. The DVLA re-bodying rules appear to allow boxing in channel sections, so you could do that along the entire length. Some of the replacement side rails and outriggers are very thin, as little as 20swg (1mm). Chic Doig supply heavy duty side rails in 14swg.
Most of the material in the main rails is 16swg (1.6mm) with some reinforcements and .... The DVLA re-bodying rules appear to allow boxing in channel sections, so you could do that along the entire length...........duty side rails in 14swg.
Has anybody got the documentation or a link to the re-body rules, as looking on the direct.gov.uk is like pulling teeth.
