Welsh Kiwi's Build Thread - 275GTB

[Welshkiwi]

Originally Posted by Mister Towed

Looking very classy and really fits in with the big-buck Astons. The 'Italia 275 GTB Prototypo' plates are a nice touch.

Is there a rear screen rubber with a chrome trim available? If so, to my eye it might be more in keeping with the rest of the car.

Keep up the good work!

Thanks a lot Mr T, really appreciated. The screen if you zoom in on the photos is actually sitting on top of the opening. The fibreglass needs thinning to get the seal to fit properly, so i’ll do that fit once the interior is finished and tidy.

I have the chrome trim sat in the garage ready to go so hopefully will be the end visuals that work....Yeh I liked that plate and I think it helped me with the fezza enthusiasts as well. Might keep some of that for the final badging. Cheers.

[Mister Towed]

Ahh yes, just zoomed in and can now see the channel for the chrome trim.

I fitted new seals and (plastic) chrome trim to a 'Bermuda' hardtop (rear window and two huge skylights) for my Midget last Autumn. It was a real pain in the fingers, even using the special tool and silicone spray to lube it so good luck when you come to fit yours.

Great looking car - I think its styling hides the more modern windscreen slope better than most Z3 based cars.

[Welshkiwi]

Quick wheel update, I have been offered (after getting my details in the show) a set of Borrani Record RW3591 5.5x15 wheels with knockoffs.
Originally probably from a Ferrari 400 Super America.
Have made initial back and fore but I think they are possibly going to be too pricey. But I do have an option to take 1 on loan to see if they fit/suit the car....They are bloody gorgeous but might be dreaming only! Keep ya in the loop! ��

[molleur]

I'm positive the Boranni's will be very expensive.
Have a look here:
https://www.truespoke.com/72-spoke-c...ce-wire-wheels
15x7 72 spoke cross laced

[Lucky@LeMans]

You need to be careful before jumping in and buying wires for this car. I bought a set of centre laced 6"-15"'s. They only just go under the arches and I've had to fit narrow 185 tyres along with the Z4 rear hub conversion. Most of the Borrani wires that suit the car will be the deep dish style.

[molleur]

Originally Posted by Lucky@LeMans

You need to be careful before jumping in and buying wires for this car. I bought a set of centre laced 6"-15"'s. They only just go under the arches and I've had to fit narrow 185 tyres along with the Z4 rear hub conversion. Most of the Borrani wires that suit the car will be the deep dish style.

Exactly. I needed to arch the rears on the 250 SWB. Looks good too.
Using 205/65/15's. Fronts were okay so far. Still need to install the coilovers.

[Welshkiwi]

Originally Posted by Lucky@LeMans

You need to be careful before jumping in and buying wires for this car. I bought a set of centre laced 6"-15"'s. They only just go under the arches and I've had to fit narrow 185 tyres along with the Z4 rear hub conversion. Most of the Borrani wires that suit the car will be the deep dish style.

Noted with thanks LLM. Being very careful with these....looks likely it won’t happen, but you never know. I think the guy has had them a while so if they fit there may be a small chance to do a deal. But I ain’t remortgaging the house to get um! Already have the new rear discs diameter reduced in case I do the hub reduction....cheers.

[Paul L]

Love the way the angle of this photo shows off the shape of the car.



It is going to look spectacular when finished and painted.

Good luck, Paul.

[Welshkiwi]

Originally Posted by Paul L

Love the way the angle of this photo shows off the shape of the car.



It is going to look spectacular when finished and painted.

Good luck, Paul.

Thanks Paul, be a wee while yet but pretty happy how it is coming together,,,,,just wish I had more dedicated time to spend on it. The older you get the more the clock is important and stretched! Cheers.

[Welshkiwi]

Hi guys, hope you are all well in lock-down - Ironically it has given me a window of opportunity to proceed with the car over the last 4 weeks.....

Update:
- Under bonnet blanket fitted
- Grille and surround fitted (at least until body paint process and change)
- Headlight covers fitted and captive nuts/brackets manufactures and fitted
- Front number plate bracket manufactured and fitted
- Rear lights removed, bodywork scalloped out for an original look and primed/refitted
- Front guards manufactured and fitted.

General to do:
- Wiring tidy up
- Interior finish panelling and fit rear window
- Fit roll tube protection and headlining
- Doors and handles/locking mechanism.

Some pictures:
Rear light clusters scalloped

Latest Rear

[Welshkiwi]

Here is the front end......

Latest Front

[Mister Towed]

Very nice

[Lucky@LeMans]

Looking good. The scalloped rear light recessing makes a big difference .

[Welshkiwi]

Originally Posted by Lucky@LeMans

Looking good. The scalloped rear light recessing makes a big difference .

Thanks LLM, I may go a bit more aggressive with this before final painting but that may require a bit more strengthening behind the light pods, so thought this worked for now at least, but it does look much better visually....cheers.

[Lucky@LeMans]

When I did my rear lights I used the recess's supplied but I did build them up on the back with P40 filler then glass mat. That allowed me to open out the recess's at 45 degrees to the full depth.

[Lucky@LeMans]

Originally Posted by Lucky@LeMans

When I did my rear lights I used the recess's supplied but I did build them up on the back with P40 filler then glass mat. That allowed me to open out the recess's at 45 degrees to the full depth.

One of the best tools I bought in the past was this Drum Sanding Kit from Screwfix. Think it was about £12. Great for scalloping out GRP !

[Welshkiwi]

Hey guys,

making progress, Rear face of car is primed majority now so looks quite smart. Started work on the door mechanisms for the locks, came up with a "push rod" lathed and made up of aluminium. This will be bonded and jubilee clamped on the door handle push rod and will have a bush going through the car door skin and brackets etc for stability. "long key approach for protection of getting locked out.....

Some mock up pics.....

Door lock pusher

Door lock pusher 2

Mock Up Door push

[Lucky@LeMans]

Originally Posted by Welshkiwi

Hey guys,

making progress, Rear face of car is primed majority now so looks quite smart. Started work on the door mechanisms for the locks, came up with a "push rod" lathed and made up of aluminium. This will be bonded and jubilee clamped on the door handle push rod and will have a bush going through the car door skin and brackets etc for stability. "long key approach for protection of getting locked out.....

Some mock up pics.....

Door lock pusher

Door lock pusher 2

Mock Up Door push

You will need to cut a rectangular hole in the door skin so you can fit the extended tab above the pivot point . If you don't do this there won't be enough leverage to push the button to open the door ! If you have already cut the outer skin to take the handle you'll have a bit more work to sort it out ! That's what I did on my car !

[Welshkiwi]

Hi LLM, thanks for all the above info, very helpful.
- rear lights good to know you bolstered the pods structure behind, I suspected that if I was a bit more aggressive I would run out of real estate!. I will have to think about this a bit more when I have the car on the road and progressing to paint. I do use the p60 grit flap wheels in my die grinder on the compressor which I have found to be very effective for the removal of fibreglass.

- door handle mechanisms you may have answered a partial question in my head about the force needed to open the door. I do have it popping with a direct button push, but until I had secured the handle on a trial bracket on the door I wasn’t sure if it was too great a force to overcome. Does anyone out there have pictures of their mechanisms using a mini door handle? I have some ideas but certainly don’t believe in re-inventing the wheel if it doesn’t need it. I may have mentioned before on my thread, plagiarism is the finest form of flattery!
Cheers Mark.

[Lucky@LeMans]

Here is the opening I made in the Z3 door skin and my Mk1 extended plate screwed in place. The Mk2 was 8mm or so taller and with two mounting screws. The Mk2 was 316 polished stainless which when greased gives a very smooth operation when you press the Mini handle button. Sorry I haven't got a photo of the Mk2 mods.
The spindle running from left to right is the pivoting point. You can't be too close to that with the Mini plunger, it simply won't rotate the spindle enough to open the door !
The rough edges were cleaned up and painted before the outer skin was fitted. I also trimmed the Z3 plastic outer lever back a little as it was touching the inner side of the outer skin when the Mini handle was operated.