Deni's Miglia Build

[Paul L]

Deni - Not sure if the Herald set up is the 100% the same as the Spitfire (although they are obviously very similar).

But there was a hole in my lowering block that needed to be enlarged slightly for the rear spring to locate properly.

More details in this post:
http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...&postcount=530

Finally, although I did fit a lowering block initially, I eventually removed it as the rear of the car was too low.

Hope that helps and good luck, Paul.

[deni]

Hi Paul,

Thank you for a quick reply. I think I will remove the spring and do it again, but this time using some Loctite (I have noticed that there are quite a few Loctite variations, with different numbers on the bottles, presumably representing a different strength?) and checking the centre hole too.

Btw, how do you make your pictures visible at all times, without logging in? (I upload my pictures directly via this forum page).

Cheers,
D

[Marc F]

Good luck Deni - will be interesting to see how you get on.

I am back on my build, the engine saga continues - it never ceases to amaze me how real life keeps blocking me. So I am now trying the "one day a weekend is my time" routine - I will see if that works.

Anybody going to Stoneleigh at end of April?

[deni]

Hi Marc,

Yes, I was wondering what happened with your build. Glad to hear you are back on it and I hope it all goes well.
I agree - "often and little" someone once said, and I will try to stick to it too.
Good luck with your build and I will keep checking your thread.

Cheers,
D

[Marc F]

Yes, I am still plugging away. Sadly, I have forgotten how to post pictures so I need to try and understand that process again.

But real life is a bitch - I envy those who have retired and can devote serious time to their cars. I get pulled from pillar to post on all manner of domestic matters - kids, house, family illness. And don't talk to me about where the money goes...

But I am still going, and still fermenting plans

[lancelot link]

If you are going to be doing some welding on your frame , may I suggest adding a bit of bracing for strength and rigidity in places ? ...The S*mmio frames had a slight flex on the rear when off the chassis , but the central tub area ( where you sit ! ) was far more robust than the Miglia version ...I never felt their frames were strong or complete enough ... The S*mmio version's have triangulation as well , which is very important ...I know Miglia's have been built and used with frames just as they are ..but if yours is incomplete and requires work ..you have the opportunity to improve it before it is clad ... just my opinion , obviously its not my car ...

[deni]

lancelot link - thanks for your reply. I would be happy if you would offer any advice on where to place the bracing in order to strengthen the frame. By the way, I am happy with any other advice too really, as this is all very new to me.

Cheers, Deni

[lancelot link]

DENI ...I have been trawling through photo's trying to find you some examples , but with the recent photobucket issues and Tinypic not responding this morning , I am struggling a bit ....
If you google image search ''S*mmio Spyder frames'' you can type the 'a' instead of the asterix , I'm not allowed !! ... You will find some good images ..the red oxide frame on the white bulkheaded car is a decent example , we ended up farming some framework out and it resulted in varying quality , but the early ones were the better ones , in my opinion , thats a fairly early one ....also , if you google image search ''S*mmio Chevaux frames'' , they show triangulation quite well ...again no door pockets which will always be easier to make strong ...

This is how the Formosa 120 GR frames are being done , this might help you with the door allowance , note that there are 2 bars running horizontally under the door step and they are tied together with triangulated sections ...this may be the best example for you to draw inspiration from....






I'd definitely put some side bracing , webbing or triangulation on the steering column mounts too ...2 little stubs like that unbraced , isn't very strong ...if the steering column was or needed to be wrenched sideways left or right for any reason , theres not much stopping those from leaning over and/or coming off ... look at the way the Formosa one is done in that picture above ...you could easily add a couple of bits to do something similar ...

If you did a 25mm box version of that , kind of , then you will have a much nicer frame ..

Oxford 13/60's S*mmio build thread is worth a look too ..his frame is rather nice ...

What you will notice on all these examples is that there is quite a lot going on compared to your current frame ......

[deni]

Gary - thank you for the advice. Farmosa frame looks soooooo much better designed and much stronger. I will definitely take your advice and add the bracing where you've suggested.

Cheers, Deni.

[lancelot link]

GLAD TO HEAR IT ...These cars are worth putting the effort into ..nicely finished examples have been making strong money recently ...and regardless of whether your intention is profit or pleasure , everyone likes to know their investment is safe or appreciating ...

[deni]

Gary - I agree. It is worth it to try and make the frame as safe as possible.

Cheers, Deni.

[lancelot link]

I'm not sure what hinges you intend to use on the car , it was originally designed to use early Mini external hinges in , uncannily , the same way the Cordite did ...but if you fancied trying to go internal , hidden hinged ...I can sell the ones I use on the Formosa ...£5 a pair including postage ...just a thought ...as you were !!

[Paul L]

Deni – Good luck with learning to weld.

I used a MIG welder for the first time on my build and practised on some spare box section first.

I found making changes to my box section frame easier to do than working with thin metal on my bulkhead repairs.

In the end, my ’Frankenstein Hillbilly’ internal structure had a lot of home welding in it.



Good luck, Paul.

[deni]

Originally Posted by Paul L

Deni – Good luck with learning to weld.

I used a MIG welder for the first time on my build and practised on some spare box section first.

I found making changes to my box section frame easier to do than working with thin metal on my bulkhead repairs.

In the end, my ’Frankenstein Hillbilly’ internal structure had a lot of home welding in it.



Good luck, Paul.

Thank you Paul. Yes I remember reading your thread when you tried MIG welding for the first time. I will try with the stick welder first, and if I struggle I will source or buy an MIG welder and give it a go.

Cheers,
D

[deni]

Originally Posted by lancelot link

I'm not sure what hinges you intend to use on the car , it was originally designed to use early Mini external hinges in , uncannily , the same way the Cordite did ...but if you fancied trying to go internal , hidden hinged ...I can sell the ones I use on the Formosa ...£5 a pair including postage ...just a thought ...as you were !!

Gary - Thank you for the offer, your hinges look great. I have already bought mini hinges for the door but, and I hope this is not a silly question, can they be use to mount the bonnet? If they can, I would gladly buy them.

Cheers,
D

[davecymru]

Thats all looking very smart!

[deni]

davecymry - thank you. This was the easy part - not being a great mechanic (yet) I compensate with cleaning and painting I guess.😊 Interesting what you've said about your front springs. Hope the new ones will be softer. Did you clean your Spitfire tank inside and if yes, how please?


I have received some parts I've ordered from Canleys earlier this week, so I have a few jobs to do on my list for Monday (and a bit of Sunday too I hope).
I have bought a reconditioned radiator as well, and I have noticed that the drain hole is facing forward unlike on the original one. Does anybody think this is a problem?

I am excited about the next stage of the build even though the winter is coming. I am looking forward to learning how to weld and to work with fiberglass. I hope the "moon buggy" stage will be reached soon. I am going to try to do as many jobs as I can before it gets too cold. However, jobs like sorting out and testing the wiring, or modifying the seats and similar can be done in the house if it is too cold to work in the garage (will have to bribe the missus though). 😉

Till next time. Cheers,D.

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by deni

… I am looking forward to learning how to weld and to work with fiberglass…

Deni – There is a great sense of satisfaction when you can use new skills on your build.

Plus, thankfully, there are a lot of people on here who know what they are doing and are happy to help.

Originally Posted by deni

… if it is too cold to work in the garage...

Too cold inside your garage?

[Rant Mode On]

”Does it ever snow inside your garage?”

[/Tongue Firmly In Cheek]





OK, I admit that even I don’t work on the car when there is snow outside.

However, I have cleared ice off the covers and carried on until I could no longer feel my fingers.

Good luck, Paul.

[davecymru]

i found the key to winter building was old fleece lined jumpers, padded coveralls and lots of little jobs i could dip in and out of.

When i got my petrol tank from spitfire graveyard the plan was to use some of that "swoosh it aroind inside" sealer and coating. But internally it was in such good condition i didnt need to!

[lancelot link]

I WORK ALL YEAR AROUND WITH THE WORKSHOP DOOR OPEN UNLESS ITS REALLY EXTREME WEATHER ...

I find once you get into something and are deep in the process you tend to forget how cold it is .....