Here is a schematic drawing for an emergency switch in the boot to operate the passenger window. Just in case your locks fail / get stuck / central locking fails. I have had professional help here.
Because the supply is direct from the battery and has no limit to the current [excepting an inline fuse] the wire should be 2.5mm and the switches must be easily able to cope with a large current; also recommend that when operating, avoid the movement reaching the top and bottom 'stops' - as this is when huge current continues to flow . . . . because the stop switches are not working.
00 emergency passenger window switch in boot jpeg.jpg
I can email this image to anyone if required. The wire colours only matter where you cut in, but it is worth having a note in your records of the colours you use.
Any questions, doubts or observations welcome.
The next action to deal with the
ECU engine hesitation was to put a 5W incandescent bulb in a number plate holder, in line / parallel with each rear position / side light led. By using the same 5W bulbs as standard, I am trying to replicate the wattage used [ even though the front side lights are 20W halogen bulbs - I tried changing these back to 5W and 2w leds, with no resolution] yet again, this seems to clear the problem, but wait a few days to see, as the hesitation does not always present itself straight away . . . . . We now have two extra lights in the boot and I put an aluminium heat sink on each holder.