No pictures but starting to hopefully make progress.
After trying/borrowing another Helix clutch plate, which worked fine, had problems convincing Helix that there was a problem with there product. After a few heated discussions on the other end of the phone, I went in person to collect the cover plate from them as I was in the area. Low and behold, it seems like it is now working.
Doing the method of hand turning the crank, someone pressing clutch pedal, someone observe plate being released from flywheel.
Only a slight drag every so often, but hoping it just needs bedding in or the flywheel will be spinning a lot faster than I can turn it!
So engine/box back in. One driveshaft back in (broken balljoint on order for the other side). Battery tray mounted.
Things to do.
Complete fitting of water pipes.
Connect up gearchange cables.
Resolder/install connector for a few wires (found I had been eager and solder a fair few wires. Which when coming to remove the engine, had to snip! Good run through though.
Wire in resistor so Rover temp gauge is correct for VW temp sender.
Fit chargecooler rad and plumb in. Re route boost hoses as driveshaft in the way of original route now the manifold has been done.
Fit N75 (easier said than done as I'm not using original air system where it is usually mounted.) Plumb in boost hoses.
Hoping to get car moving under it's own steam next weekend without boost.
Full diags test (£40 locally) check all system go very soon. Full mapping/full boost (21 PSI) early in the new year fitted with bigger injectors.
For the people that don't know how much boost 21 PSI is. Standard 180 BHP Audi/SEAT runs at 7-9 PSI. Rover turbo is 11-12 PSI.
Should see in the region of 300 BHP/same torque safely.